ImageOnly around 100 people live in Acone, a village high on a mountain in Tuscany first settled in the sixth century and mentioned in passing in Dante’s “Divine Comedy,” as the poet wanders through heaven. Ixta Belfrage thinks of that mountain as home, though she spent just a few years there as a child. Sheh3pg, too, wandered heaven, down rolling hills and roads lined with cypress trees as tall and slender as spires.
Recipe: Porcini RagùAre we ever released from our first loves? The village is home to a single restaurant, Ristorante Pizzeria Acone, and there, under bare wooden beams, you will find the dish that, for Belfrage, decades later, is still the one: penne all’Aconese, rich with dried porcini mushrooms, cured pork, tomato paste dark and deep, a storm of black pepper, cosseting cream, red chile like tethered sun. Or so she has had to deduce from taste, because the recipe is secret and belongs to Acone alone.
To achieve something close,66jogo casino she has improvised on her own, which is how she learned to cook. “No one taught me,” she says. On visits to her grandparents’ home in Mexico — she’s named after a nearby volcano — she lurked in the kitchen, watching as tortillas were slapped down and chiles gutted and fried. Beyond that, it was all instinct. “Recipes often come about because of mistakes,” she says. “There should be no rules.” It’s a philosophy that has taken her from an entry-level job at Nopi in London to creating recipes alongside the chef Yotam Ottolenghi (a writer of this column).For the 2020 cookbook “Ottolenghi Flavor,” which celebrates vegetables, she wanted to make a lasagna that could achieve true meatiness without meat. She thought back to Acone and the power of porcini, whose name means “little pigs” in Italian, a nod to their chubby stems and broad, fleshy caps. They’re tricky to cultivate, because they become one with the trees they feed upon — spruce, pine, chestnut, hemlock — with long tendril threads that tangle with the tree roots and spread in great labyrinths through the forest floor. And so they’re typically gathered from the wild and taste of it, luscious and nutty, profoundly of the earth.
recebaWhy not a shortcut to glory? Must we always toil and suffer for something to be good?We are having trouble retrieving the article content.
His debunked claims about Haitian migrants stealing and eating their neighbors’ pets in Springfield, Ohio, helped stir a firestorm over immigration in that community, which has dealt with bomb threats and evacuations after Mr. Trump made his comments.
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